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There is a certain romance to train travel that flying will never replicate and that driving a car simply cannot touch. It’s the romance of steel wheels on iron rails, of moving through the landscape at a pace that allows you to actually see it. When most people think of iconic American train journeys, they think of the California Zephyr through the Rockies or the Coast Starlight along the Pacific. But for my money—and for your next long weekend—the best route on the Amtrak map is the Empire Builder, heading straight for the bold, beautiful, and surprisingly hip city of Minneapolis.
I’ve taken the train from the Pacific Northwest to the Upper Midwest more times than I can count. Sometimes it’s been a budget-saving marathon in coach. Other times, I’ve splurged on a sleeper roomette with the little pillow chocolates and the communal dining car chatter. Every single time, stepping off the train at Minneapolis–Saint Paul Union Depot feels like waking from a dream. If you’ve never considered the rails for your Twin Cities visit, let me change your mind.
The specific train we are talking about is Amtrak’s Empire Builder (Trains 7 and 8). It runs daily between Chicago and Seattle/Portland. For the Minneapolis traveler, you’ll be boarding either in Chicago (if you’re coming from the East) or from points west like Fargo, Spokane, or even Glacier National Park.
But let’s assume you’re taking the train to Minneapolis, not through it. The beauty of this arrival is that the last few hours of the journey become a slow, majestic reveal of the Mississippi River bluffs. Unlike the interstate (I-94), which slams you into the city’s western suburbs through a haze of strip malls, the train tracks hug the river’s edge.
Approaching from the west, you cross the Mississippi near the historic town of Hastings. If you time it right—and you usually do—the sunset turns the river into a sheet of molten gold. You start to see the locks and dams, then the industrial bones of the city’s milling past, and finally, the glittering skyline of downtown Minneapolis rising above the limestone bluffs. It is, without question, the best way to enter the city.
Let’s get practical. You don’t want a flowery description of the journey; you want to know if this is actually a good idea. It is, but you need to manage expectations.
The Schedule: The Empire Builder going eastbound (from Seattle/Portland to Chicago) arrives in Minneapolis roughly between 9:00 PM and 11:00 PM. I say “roughly” because freight traffic on the BNSF railway often causes delays. Do not book a tight connection for the same night. Treat the train as part of the vacation.
The Station: You will arrive at St. Paul Union Depot, not Minneapolis. This is a crucial distinction. The Union Depot in St. Paul is a Beaux-Arts masterpiece—check out the waiting hall’s vaulted tile ceiling. It is gorgeous, clean, and safe. However, it is a 20-minute light rail or Uber ride from downtown Minneapolis. The METRO Green Line train connects directly from the depot’s underground platform to the heart of Minneapolis (Nicollet Mall) in about 35 minutes.
The Cost: For a typical one-way trip from Chicago to Minneapolis (approx. 8 hours), expect to pay 40–70 for a coach seat. From Seattle (approx. 34 hours), it gets pricier—150+forcoach,or600+ for a sleeper. The sweet spot? The fare from Fargo to Minneapolis is often under $40 and gives you a solid 6 hours of prairie-to-river transformation.
You might be thinking: Why would I spend 8 hours on a train from Chicago when the flight is 90 minutes?
The answer is mental real estate.
When you fly, you are a piece of luggage. You are herded, scanned, squeezed, and handed a tiny bag of pretzels. The landscape is a meaningless grid of suburbs and farms seen from 30,000 feet. When you drive, you are the operator; you cannot look away. You are stressed about gas, traffic, and construction.
On the train, you are a viewer. For eight hours, the landscape is your movie. You don’t have to keep your hands on the wheel. You can read a book. You can write in a journal. You can walk to the Sightseer Lounge car—that glorious glass-domed carriage—and watch the Wisconsin dairy farms roll by while sipping a $6 glass of wine.
By the time you hit the Twin Cities, you aren’t exhausted. You are arrived. You are curious. You are ready to explore.
Once you step off that train (or the Green Line light rail from Union Depot), you are entering one of the most underrated food and culture scenes in America. Here is a hyper-local guide to the immediate post-train trip.
If you arrive late at Union Depot, do not panic. St. Paul is quieter at night. Grab a ride to a hotel downtown. My recommendation? Stay near North Loop in Minneapolis. This is the old warehouse district, converted into brick-and-beam lofts, designer boutiques, and the best restaurants in the state.
The Vibe: Exposed brick, neon signs, cobblestone alleys.
Dinner (if late): Red Cow for the best burger of your life (get the “Red Cow Classic” with truffle aioli). Or Bar La Grassa for insane Italian small plates—the soft eggs and bruschetta are legendary.
Wake up early. The jet lag of the train is actually a gift—you’re up with the sunrise over the Mississippi.
Morning: Mill City Museum
Located on the historic riverfront, this museum is built into the ruins of what was once the world’s largest flour mill. You take an elevator ride to the top of the silo for a panoramic view of the Stone Arch Bridge—the only stone arch bridge on the entire Mississippi. Walk across that bridge. It is a pilgrimage. Feel the roar of the falls at St. Anthony Falls, the only true waterfall on the Mississippi.
Afternoon: The Walker and the Spoon
Walk (or rent a Nice Ride bike) to the Walker Art Center. Even if modern art isn’t your thing, you go for the garden. Next to the Walker is the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden, home to the iconic Spoonbridge and Cherry (the giant spoon with a cherry on it—the official selfie spot of the city).
Lunch: Hola Arepa. It’s a little converted food truck that grew into a brick-and-mortar powerhouse. Get the Pabellón arepa (shredded beef, black beans, plantains). It costs $12 and will change your life.
Evening: A Play or a Lake
Minneapolis has the second-most theater seats per capita in the United States (after NYC). Catch a show at the Guthrie Theater—the “Yellow Room” overlooks the river. If you want nature, drive 10 minutes to Bde Maka Ska (formerly Lake Calhoun). Rent a kayak or just walk the 3.5-mile loop around the lake. Watch the golden retrievers fetch sticks while the sun sets over the Minneapolis skyline. This is the “Minnesota Nice” in action.
Morning: The Midtown Global Market
This is a non-negotiable. Located on Lake Street, this indoor market is a celebration of the immigrant communities that power the city. Get tacos from La Loma, Somali sambusas from Safa, and a Vietnamese coffee from Cafe Palm. You can eat your way around the world in 200 feet.
The “Jucy Lucy” Debate
You cannot leave Minneapolis without eating a Jucy Lucy (a cheeseburger with the cheese inside the meat patty). Two bars fight for the crown: Matt’s Bar (the original, divey, perfect) and The 5-8 Club (the rival). Go to Matt’s. Order it with grilled onions. Burn your mouth. It is a rite of passage.
If you are heading back west or continuing east to Chicago, adjust your strategy.
Sit on the left side when heading westbound out of Minneapolis. You get the river views again.
Bring your own snacks. The Amtrak cafe car is fine for coffee and microwaved pizza, but a baguette, some salami, and a chunk of Wisconsin cheddar from the Midtown Market will elevate your journey.
Don’t overpack. The luggage racks upstairs in the Superliner cars fill up fast. A carry-on and a backpack are all you need for a long weekend.
Talk to strangers. This is the only travel mode where a 70-year-old retired farmer from North Dakota will tell you his life story, and an artist from Portland will share their sour gummy worms with you. The dining car (if open) mandates community seating. Embrace it.
Honestly? No. If you are a control freak who hates lateness, Amtrak will drive you crazy. Freight trains own the tracks. You will sit on a siding for 20 minutes while a mile-long BNSF coal train rumbles past. This happens. It is part of the texture.
But if you view those 20 minutes not as “a delay” but as “an excuse to stare at rusted cabooses and watch the storm clouds build over the prairie,” then you are a train person.
Minneapolis is a city built by the railroad. The flour mills stood because the tracks arrived. The lumber barons got rich because the trains hauled the wood. Today, stepping off the Empire Builder onto the polished floors of St. Paul’s Union Depot feels like completing a historical circuit.
You do not take the train to Minneapolis because it is the fastest way. You take it because the journey sands down the rough edges of modern travel. It leaves you soft, curious, and ready for the Jucy Lucy.
So book the ticket. Pack a paperback and a power strip (outlets are limited in coach!). Watch the Mississippi appear out of the dusk. And when the conductor calls out, “Next stop, Minneapolis–Saint Paul,” you will feel something you haven’t felt in years: the simple, profound joy of arrival.
